STIHL Chainsaw and Shop Safety FAQs: 039, 20-Inch Bars, SPT55-11, and More

You want answers, not a long intro. I coordinate equipment for landscape and tree-service clients, and I've lost count of the same-day and 48-hour requests that start with a dead saw or a 'can we get this done by Friday?' phone call. In my role, I've handled 200+ rush orders in a little over a decade. The questions below are the ones I actually get when someone needs a straight answer—not a sales pitch.

Is the STIHL 039 chainsaw still worth buying?

The 039 is an older STIHL workhorse, often grouped in the Farm Boss family. It's no longer the current model in STIHL's lineup as of January 2025—that role has largely moved to the MS 391—but there are still plenty of 039s running on farms and in small tree crews. If you're looking at a used one, the saw itself can be fine. The catch is condition and parts.

From the outside, a cheap used chainsaw looks like a smart way to save money. The reality is that a neglected carburetor, oiler, or chain brake can turn a $200 saw into a $400 project before you ever make a cut. I'm not saying don't buy one. I'm saying check compression, inspect the chain brake, pull the bar and look at the groove, and make sure the oiler actually squirts. If you don't know how to check those, take it to a local STIHL dealer before you hand over cash.

In March 2024, a client called 36 hours before a storm cleanup with a dead 021. We found a clean 039 at a local shop, but there wasn't time to do a full bench test. I checked the basics, decided it was worth the risk, and sent it out. It ran all weekend. I'll be honest: that was judgment plus a bit of luck. With more time, I'd have wanted a dealer to inspect it first.

Should I get a 20-inch STIHL chainsaw?

A 20-inch bar is a practical middle ground for mixed work: storm cleanup, bucking firewood, felling medium trees. It's not automatically better than a smaller or bigger bar. People assume a 20-inch bar makes the saw more capable. What they don't see is that the engine has to push that bar through the cut. A lightweight saw with a 20-inch bar will struggle in dense hardwood, and the extra length makes it harder to control in tight spots.

If you're choosing between a STIHL MS 261, MS 271, or MS 291, a 20-inch bar is a reasonable option for most jobs. If you're looking at a smaller saw, stay with a 16-inch bar and match the chain to the wood. And no matter what, use the bar-and-chain combinations listed in the owner's manual. STIHL's current manuals show approved pitch, gauge, and drive-link counts for a reason. Mismatched parts are a red flag for safety and performance.

One thing I tell people all the time: a 20-inch bar works best when you've got a saw with enough torque to use it. Don't get caught up in the number on the box.

Where should I buy STIHL if I need it fast?

Find a local authorized STIHL dealer. I'm not saying every online deal is bad, but when you're rushing a job, the dealer's parts counter is worth more than a $40 discount. In October 2024, an online order came in with the wrong chain pitch two days before a job. The customer called us, we swapped the chain, and it cost them an hour instead of a week. If you don't have a relationship with a dealer before the emergency, the emergency gets worse.

Bottom line: buy from someone who can look at your saw in person, tell you what actually fits, and get the right part without a guess.

What is the SPT55-11 carpentry chainsaw? Should I get one?

The SPT55-11 shows up in a lot of searches as a 'carpentry chainsaw.' I don't know the exact manufacturer behind every SPT55-11 listing, and I won't pretend to have tested one. It's a compact utility saw aimed at light cuts—think rough carpentry, dimensional lumber, and small crosscuts. For that kind of work, a lightweight saw can be handy. It is not in the same class as a STIHL 039 or MS 391.

If you're cutting firewood or felling trees, don't make that your main saw. If you're trimming framing lumber and want something you can grab without hauling a big powerhead around, a light utility saw can make sense. My advice: before you buy, check whether replacement chains and bars are easy to get. A model number you can't find parts for isn't a tool, it's a future emergency call.

I'll be straight about boundaries: this type of saw isn't my department's strength. That's okay. A good vendor tells you when a tool is out of its lane instead of selling you something just because it's in stock.

Is a 208cc 18-inch tiller too much for a homeowner?

A 208cc, 18-inch tiller is basically real garden machinery, not a compact cultivator. If you're breaking new ground, maintaining a large vegetable plot, or doing serious landscaping, that size is around what you'd expect. If you only need to work small raised beds, it's overkill—and it'll be heavy, thirsty, and awkward to store.

During our busiest season, a client bought an 18-inch tiller without measuring their shed or their car. It was like a bad sitcom. Don't assume a tiller will fit where a lawn mower fit. Check width, weight, and transport before you commit.

For a typical home garden, a 208cc machine gives you enough width to cover rows quickly and enough weight to dig in. But bigger isn't always better. If the soil is light and the area is small, renting a tiller for a day is often smarter than owning one that sits in the corner for 11 months.

Can a grinding wheel cut metal?

Yes, but only with the right wheel. An aluminum oxide cut-off wheel or a metal-rated grinding wheel can cut steel and other ferrous metals. A masonry or tile wheel isn't the same thing, and using it is a safety problem. Check the label for two things: the material it's rated for and the maximum RPM.

Your angle grinder spins fast. If the wheel's RPM rating is lower than the grinder's no-load speed, don't put it on. A cracked or chipped wheel is even worse. ANSI B7.1 covers grinding wheel safety, and the guard on your grinder isn't there for looks. I've had to turn jobs around because someone grabbed the wrong wheel and trashed both the disc and the deadline.

One more tip: a thin cut-off wheel is designed for cutting, not heavy grinding. A thick grinding wheel is for shaping and stock removal. If you're trying to slice through thick metal with a grinding wheel made for surface work, that's a red flag. Match the wheel to the work.